Showing posts with label South Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South Island. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

End of the road trip

Day 15 (Sun, 4 Dec 2011)

Dunedin - Christchurch: 355km

After 2 glorious weeks, this would be our last day in NZ :(

We spent it mostly driving, as we had to get to Christchurch - our final stop. Along the way, we stopped at the Whitestone Cheese Factory in Oamaru. Whitestone has won many awards and the cheese has been featured in the US sitcom "Scrubs".

The factory in Oamaru produces all the Whitestone cheese for NZ.

There were tastings at the shop and of course, we bought some. Hopefully, the cheese will survive the long journey home!

Not too long after we resumed our journey, we came by a funny place called Riverstone Arts and Crafts. The sign read "The best bloody shop for miles!" How not to stop?

It sells a multitude of curios and knick-knacks, everything from stuffed toys to Christmas ornaments and furniture.





The two-storey shop is covered wall to wall with stuff in seemingly random order and you have to wade through the trinkets, but there are many gems.

There was sooooo much stuff it was overwhelming. We ended up just buying a giraffe windchime.









But it was loads of fun looking around. There was even a wooden pool table (using golf balls) out side!

Our next stop was Butler's Berry Farm and Cafe. Didn't eat anything, we just wanted to look around as we had yet to see a berry farm. Originally, we thought we'd be able to stop at a farm and pick berries but it was too early in the season.

Strawberry fields forever...

The shop sold shelves of berry preserves, sauces and fresh fruit.Have you ever seen a gooseberry? I haven't. We tried it - it's sour! It's usually used for pies and jams.

Our lunch stop was at Timaru, a sizeable town.

To our delight, we saw another Speight's Ale House! Yay! The menu was slightly different from the one in Dunedin but the food was still good.

Finally at about 3.30pm, we arrived at Christchurch. We decided to stay at a hotel close to the airport as our flight home is at an unearthly hour of 6.40am. Checked into Copthorne Hotel Commodore which offered a very convenient free 24/7 shuttle service to the airport. It's only 5 minutes from the airport.

View from our room. We're gonna miss all this greenery when we get home.

We returned our car to Apex, located just around the corner.
The Camry we rented served us very well for our journey. In total, we clocked 2,929km. What a feat in itself!

To end the day, Kenneth's friend from JC now living in Christchurch, picked us up for dinner at her place with her lovely family. The place is actually her rental home as her real home was damaged in the earthquake and is undergoing repairs.

Absolutely super to enjoy a home-cooked meal among friends.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

To market, to market

Day 14 (Sat, 3 Dec 2011)

Our last day in Dunedin. In case you're wondering why we allocated so much time to Dunedin, our original plan was to spend one day in Christchurch. However, after all the earthquake scares, we decided to give the city a miss so so extended our time in Dunedin by one day.

It was a bonus for us. After all that driving, we were happy to stay in one spot for a few days, to enjoy the last leg of our trip.

Coincidentally, since we're in Dunedin on a Saturday, we were able to visit the Otago Farmers Market at the Dunedin Railway Station. Over 65 vendors come together every week to offer the freshest fruit and produce from Otago. This is one of the busiest Farmers Markets in Australasia.

This is a very happening place. It's pretty crowded and why not, it was a lovely, cool morning.

They seem to have everything, from plants...

to freshly baked bread and pastries,

from honey...

to newly picked cherries.

You can even order your Christmas ham from a truck!

We found one stall selling venison sausages.

Then the fun part - sampling the wares!

Why not go the whole hog? A hotdog with the works to wash down the sausage.

Looking around, it seems like the market is a popular venue for Saturday breakfast. There are even vendors selling piping hot cappucino from the vans.

The Dunedin Railway Station itself, where the market is located, is a historical site. A five-minute walk from the Octagon, it is apparently the 2nd most photographed landmark in the Southern Hemisphere, losing out only to the Sydney Opera House.

After that leisurely morning excursion, we went back to Speight's Ale House for lunch as we really enjoyed our meal there yesterday. This time, we ordered fish & chips and lamb steak.

In my original itinerary, I had planned to visit Larnach Castle in the afternoon, as I thought it would be interesting for the kids to see NZ's only castle.

But after last evening's escapade, we were all rather tired and the kids pleaded disinterest at seeing an architectural landmark. I guess after all the fantastic adventures we've been having, this one sounds a little flat. It didn't take much to convince us, especially as we'd seen the extremely narrow and winding roads up the mountain to Larnach Castle.

So it was an afternoon of chill instead.

We walked to the Octagon, the city centre of Dunedin. It's only 800m from our motel and in the cool 23-degree environment, it was very pleasant.

The Octagon is flanked by the main buildings of the city, such as the town hall and art gallery.

There was a protest going on right in the centre. I asked our motel owner, a jovial elderly gentleman, what they were protesting against. He replied, "who knows? The world, probably. I reckon it's 'Rent-a-Mob'." Heh. (We found out later it's Occupy Dunedin.)

We then walked to the nearby Warehouse, which is a very large hypermart like Target, and got ourselves 3 DVDs for $25. Came back to the motel and watched 'Home Alone'. It is the Christmas season afterall! (And yes, the motel unit came with a DVD player).

For dinner, we walked back to Jitsu Japanese Restaurant, also cos we liked the food the first time. We're such creatures of habit! Although I must say in Dunedin, there's no end of choices for cuisine. They have everything from Thai to Turkish, Chinese to Italian.

Then it's back for an early night as we have a long drive tomorrow. Very sad this trip is coming to an end.

Friday, December 9, 2011

Sea lions, penguins and chocolates!

Day 13 (Fri, 2 Dec 2011)

We have a full day today. First stop, Cadbury World!

This is a must-go attraction for any chocoholic. The factory in Dunedin produces all the commercial Cadbury chocolate for Australasia, and some of the retail chocolate, such as Jaffa eggs and Roses. The rest of the blocks sold in stores in NZ are actually shipped from Australia.

At the start of the tour, we're each given a small bag with a chocolate bar. But don't worry, cos the bag quickly fills up! On the tour of the factory, we were given samples of chocolate buttons and other candy bars. You also get mini bars for answering questions posed by the guide. To me, the best tasting of the day was a tub of liquid chocolate. Oh my goodness, it was so yummy. It's like eating melted Dairy Milk.

Unfortunately, photos are not allowed during the tour, so I can't show you what we saw. But it's quite fun to see how the chocolates are made and how the machines pack the boxes of chocolate bars with meticulous precision and at high speed.

What's really cool is that as you enter different rooms, you're greeted with a heavenly waft of whatever the factory is producing that day. I'm glad it wasn't Turkish Delight or something with coconut when we were there. Ours was Jaffa eggs, so we got that delightful orangey-chocolate scent.

Towards the end of the tour, we go up to the top of the huge purple silo where the guide releases a chocolate waterfall ala Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Actually, I find this part a bit gimmicky - it's a tonne of recycled liquid chocolate released from a large vat overhead. Purely for entertainment.

If you notice, the vivid purple colour that's signature Cadbury is carried through in all their packaging and equipment. I was even rewarded with extra chocolate bars for wearing purple! That's what I call branding.

After that, we headed outside to take photos with the vintage milk trucks...

...and view the historical chocolate packaging of Cadbury's over the years (see how different the Milk Tray used to look!)

Then of course we had to buy some chocolate from the shop. They sell their candy at discounted prices here and it is much cheaper here but do shop around - the local Countdown (there's one just across from the Cadbury factory) often offer massive discounts that might even beat the prices here.

With all that sugar in our system, we headed out for lunch which was at much lauded Speight's Ale House. It's a micro-brewery and restaurant, something like Paulaner Brauhaus in Singapore.

The food is very much pub fare and the portions are HUGE. We ordered a braised rump steak and a beef schnitzel - just 2 plates for the 4 of us and we were stuffed. The beef, as always, is excellent.

In the afternoon, we're off to explore the Otago Peninsula, which is just off Dunedin city. It's a wildlife haven and we're taking the opportunity to see nature in the wild.

We signed up for Peninsula Encounters by Elm Wildlife Tours. It's a full tour, from 3.30-9pm and we were picked up at our motel. At first, we were puzzled by the odd timing but later realised it's because the animals tend to come in to shore only in the evening time.

The drive to the Otago Peninsula is via winding, narrow mountain roads. We're glad transport is provided!

Along the way, the guide pointed out many native birds spotted in the fields. One of them that got us all terribly excited was the pukeko. We've been seeing many books and stuffed toys of this very funny bird which is a brilliant blue with a crimson beak. It's so cartoony we could hardly believe it actually existed. We'd not caught sight of it despite being told it's quite common in these parts, so it was fantastic to see it in the flesh at last!

We drove by an estuary and saw a family of Paradise Shelducks.

Up on peak of the cliff is the Royal Albatross Centre and breeding ground.

It's a magnificent feeling, like you're on top of the world.

Usually, this place is gusty, which is why it's ideal for albatrosses, as they're huge birds and unlike gulls, they can't flap their wings. They need strong winds to carry them up and spend a lot of time gliding on their enormous wing span of up to 3.5m.

However, that day was exceptionally calm, so much so that the guide was not hopeful of seeing any albatrosses in flight. But we were very fortunate! After about half an hour, we saw a few circling around us and the lighthouse.

I don't know how but Lesley-Anne managed to capture this fantastic shot as the albatross was soaring towards us at top speed. Perfectly framed.

As I was gaping at the fantastic scene, I suddenly got a call from a client. It felt so incongruous - modern technology in the middle of the wilderness (which got me curious stares from the other participants).

A little about albatrosses. My only impression of them before coming here was based on Disney's cartoon, The Rescuers, where the comical albatross always had a problem taking off and landing. In real life, they're very majestic and graceful, and can fly 10,000km in 10 days.

Albatrosses are very picky. They mate for life and have only 1 baby every 2 years. This is because the chick is basically a parasite needing truckloads of food. Finding food for the baby takes a lot of energy and the baby will eat until it's bigger than its parents.

Finally, the parents will just take off, exhausted, abandoning the young chick. After a couple of weeks, the chick will grow extremely hungry and realise "hey, maybe ma and pa aren't coming back". It will then venture out of its nest and attempt to fly. According to the guide, some of these amateur albatrosses end up crashing in the cliffs and the rangers would have to go down, pick them up and deposit them back in the nests so they can try again. Funny!

Then we were on our way again, to another part of the peninsula. See these trees - it's not cos the wind was blowing - they're permanently in this position! Proof of how blustery this area is.

Romantic plains with grazing sheep.

We stopped and started trekking down a steep gravelly path towards the beach.

We came across sea lion tracks on the sand. It was going out to sea.

The thing about animals in the wild is that it's beyond human control. You can only hope to catch sight of them but if they don't make an appearance, there's nothing you can do about it.

So we were delighted when a sea lion emerged, just a few minutes after we arrived.

It waddled towards us. Maybe it thought we were other sea lions!

I don't know if you have ever experienced this - having a gigantic sea lion traverse towards you at the beach. It felt surreal, like we were in the middle of a National Geographic filming. These are wild animals in their natural habitat. To come so close to them is just magical.

However, the guide did impress upon us that sea lions are not cute and cuddly. They're aggressive predators and can run on the sand at 25km per hour, faster than any human. They're often mistaken as seals but they can't be more different. Sea lions are much larger. They eat seals and can pierce seal skulls with their razor sharp teeth.

Each time it approached us beyond a safe limit, the guide would tell us to walk backwards slowly, to show that we accept he's the boss. It would walk towards us and give a roar (which looked like a yawn but is actually an aggressive gesture).

It had us backed all the way up the sand dunes and into the grass. According to the guide, it's breeding season, so the males are particularly territorial. In fact, this beautiful creature waddled across the entire beach to another sea lion resting on the sand, and drove it back into the sea.

Following that sensational sight, we trekked further inwards to a little hut, specially erected as a viewing area for penguins.

We saw the yellow-eyed penguins, seemingly standing at attention on the hill. They stand here cos it's safer for themselves and their babies further up from the beach where the sea lions roam (sea lions are meanies - they will play with and eat the penguins).

Sometimes, you can see the penguins emerging from the water but when we were there, the sea lion's presence discouraged such emergence lest they become bait.

Penguins, like albatrosses, mate for life and they have only 1 egg each time. As their habitats have been disappearing, they've been having problems building nests, so rangers built these small wooden enclosures for the penguins to house their young.

This is a blue penguin chick in its nest. It's close to the entrance because it's evening time and it knows its parents will be back soon with dinner.

Following the penguin colony, we retraced our steps back to the top of the hill and headed down the opposite direction. It's a 15-minute walk down several hilly mounds, and steep, stony path towards a lookout among the rocks.

Among the rocks was a whole colony of fur seals, basking in the wind.

There were numerous pups with their mothers on the rocks, awwww.

Lesley-Anne took many of the photos in this post. She's been harbouring an interest in photography for a while now and her eye for composition is coming through in the photos she's taken on this trip. She's gotten some really nice shots, even with her simple point-and-shoot. I might enrol her in a photography class at some point, if she keeps up the interest.

The Kiwis' threshold for adventure is high. The tour is marketed as suitable for kids but for us city folk, we found the trek rather challenging. Each trek to the beach and to see the fur seals took about 15 mins one way. The last 5 minutes up the hill from the seals was particularly strenuous, I had almost slowed to a crawl. I thought maybe I was unfit but I looked behind me and saw all the other participants in the same shape!

But it's 100% worth it. If you're ever in Dunedin, you MUST try this. It's an encounter of a lifetime and memorable cannot begin to describe it.

As we were coming up the hill at 8.45pm, the sun set, casting an amber glow on the vast landscape. This is the picture of dreams.