Friday, December 9, 2011

Sea lions, penguins and chocolates!

Day 13 (Fri, 2 Dec 2011)

We have a full day today. First stop, Cadbury World!

This is a must-go attraction for any chocoholic. The factory in Dunedin produces all the commercial Cadbury chocolate for Australasia, and some of the retail chocolate, such as Jaffa eggs and Roses. The rest of the blocks sold in stores in NZ are actually shipped from Australia.

At the start of the tour, we're each given a small bag with a chocolate bar. But don't worry, cos the bag quickly fills up! On the tour of the factory, we were given samples of chocolate buttons and other candy bars. You also get mini bars for answering questions posed by the guide. To me, the best tasting of the day was a tub of liquid chocolate. Oh my goodness, it was so yummy. It's like eating melted Dairy Milk.

Unfortunately, photos are not allowed during the tour, so I can't show you what we saw. But it's quite fun to see how the chocolates are made and how the machines pack the boxes of chocolate bars with meticulous precision and at high speed.

What's really cool is that as you enter different rooms, you're greeted with a heavenly waft of whatever the factory is producing that day. I'm glad it wasn't Turkish Delight or something with coconut when we were there. Ours was Jaffa eggs, so we got that delightful orangey-chocolate scent.

Towards the end of the tour, we go up to the top of the huge purple silo where the guide releases a chocolate waterfall ala Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Actually, I find this part a bit gimmicky - it's a tonne of recycled liquid chocolate released from a large vat overhead. Purely for entertainment.

If you notice, the vivid purple colour that's signature Cadbury is carried through in all their packaging and equipment. I was even rewarded with extra chocolate bars for wearing purple! That's what I call branding.

After that, we headed outside to take photos with the vintage milk trucks...

...and view the historical chocolate packaging of Cadbury's over the years (see how different the Milk Tray used to look!)

Then of course we had to buy some chocolate from the shop. They sell their candy at discounted prices here and it is much cheaper here but do shop around - the local Countdown (there's one just across from the Cadbury factory) often offer massive discounts that might even beat the prices here.

With all that sugar in our system, we headed out for lunch which was at much lauded Speight's Ale House. It's a micro-brewery and restaurant, something like Paulaner Brauhaus in Singapore.

The food is very much pub fare and the portions are HUGE. We ordered a braised rump steak and a beef schnitzel - just 2 plates for the 4 of us and we were stuffed. The beef, as always, is excellent.

In the afternoon, we're off to explore the Otago Peninsula, which is just off Dunedin city. It's a wildlife haven and we're taking the opportunity to see nature in the wild.

We signed up for Peninsula Encounters by Elm Wildlife Tours. It's a full tour, from 3.30-9pm and we were picked up at our motel. At first, we were puzzled by the odd timing but later realised it's because the animals tend to come in to shore only in the evening time.

The drive to the Otago Peninsula is via winding, narrow mountain roads. We're glad transport is provided!

Along the way, the guide pointed out many native birds spotted in the fields. One of them that got us all terribly excited was the pukeko. We've been seeing many books and stuffed toys of this very funny bird which is a brilliant blue with a crimson beak. It's so cartoony we could hardly believe it actually existed. We'd not caught sight of it despite being told it's quite common in these parts, so it was fantastic to see it in the flesh at last!

We drove by an estuary and saw a family of Paradise Shelducks.

Up on peak of the cliff is the Royal Albatross Centre and breeding ground.

It's a magnificent feeling, like you're on top of the world.

Usually, this place is gusty, which is why it's ideal for albatrosses, as they're huge birds and unlike gulls, they can't flap their wings. They need strong winds to carry them up and spend a lot of time gliding on their enormous wing span of up to 3.5m.

However, that day was exceptionally calm, so much so that the guide was not hopeful of seeing any albatrosses in flight. But we were very fortunate! After about half an hour, we saw a few circling around us and the lighthouse.

I don't know how but Lesley-Anne managed to capture this fantastic shot as the albatross was soaring towards us at top speed. Perfectly framed.

As I was gaping at the fantastic scene, I suddenly got a call from a client. It felt so incongruous - modern technology in the middle of the wilderness (which got me curious stares from the other participants).

A little about albatrosses. My only impression of them before coming here was based on Disney's cartoon, The Rescuers, where the comical albatross always had a problem taking off and landing. In real life, they're very majestic and graceful, and can fly 10,000km in 10 days.

Albatrosses are very picky. They mate for life and have only 1 baby every 2 years. This is because the chick is basically a parasite needing truckloads of food. Finding food for the baby takes a lot of energy and the baby will eat until it's bigger than its parents.

Finally, the parents will just take off, exhausted, abandoning the young chick. After a couple of weeks, the chick will grow extremely hungry and realise "hey, maybe ma and pa aren't coming back". It will then venture out of its nest and attempt to fly. According to the guide, some of these amateur albatrosses end up crashing in the cliffs and the rangers would have to go down, pick them up and deposit them back in the nests so they can try again. Funny!

Then we were on our way again, to another part of the peninsula. See these trees - it's not cos the wind was blowing - they're permanently in this position! Proof of how blustery this area is.

Romantic plains with grazing sheep.

We stopped and started trekking down a steep gravelly path towards the beach.

We came across sea lion tracks on the sand. It was going out to sea.

The thing about animals in the wild is that it's beyond human control. You can only hope to catch sight of them but if they don't make an appearance, there's nothing you can do about it.

So we were delighted when a sea lion emerged, just a few minutes after we arrived.

It waddled towards us. Maybe it thought we were other sea lions!

I don't know if you have ever experienced this - having a gigantic sea lion traverse towards you at the beach. It felt surreal, like we were in the middle of a National Geographic filming. These are wild animals in their natural habitat. To come so close to them is just magical.

However, the guide did impress upon us that sea lions are not cute and cuddly. They're aggressive predators and can run on the sand at 25km per hour, faster than any human. They're often mistaken as seals but they can't be more different. Sea lions are much larger. They eat seals and can pierce seal skulls with their razor sharp teeth.

Each time it approached us beyond a safe limit, the guide would tell us to walk backwards slowly, to show that we accept he's the boss. It would walk towards us and give a roar (which looked like a yawn but is actually an aggressive gesture).

It had us backed all the way up the sand dunes and into the grass. According to the guide, it's breeding season, so the males are particularly territorial. In fact, this beautiful creature waddled across the entire beach to another sea lion resting on the sand, and drove it back into the sea.

Following that sensational sight, we trekked further inwards to a little hut, specially erected as a viewing area for penguins.

We saw the yellow-eyed penguins, seemingly standing at attention on the hill. They stand here cos it's safer for themselves and their babies further up from the beach where the sea lions roam (sea lions are meanies - they will play with and eat the penguins).

Sometimes, you can see the penguins emerging from the water but when we were there, the sea lion's presence discouraged such emergence lest they become bait.

Penguins, like albatrosses, mate for life and they have only 1 egg each time. As their habitats have been disappearing, they've been having problems building nests, so rangers built these small wooden enclosures for the penguins to house their young.

This is a blue penguin chick in its nest. It's close to the entrance because it's evening time and it knows its parents will be back soon with dinner.

Following the penguin colony, we retraced our steps back to the top of the hill and headed down the opposite direction. It's a 15-minute walk down several hilly mounds, and steep, stony path towards a lookout among the rocks.

Among the rocks was a whole colony of fur seals, basking in the wind.

There were numerous pups with their mothers on the rocks, awwww.

Lesley-Anne took many of the photos in this post. She's been harbouring an interest in photography for a while now and her eye for composition is coming through in the photos she's taken on this trip. She's gotten some really nice shots, even with her simple point-and-shoot. I might enrol her in a photography class at some point, if she keeps up the interest.

The Kiwis' threshold for adventure is high. The tour is marketed as suitable for kids but for us city folk, we found the trek rather challenging. Each trek to the beach and to see the fur seals took about 15 mins one way. The last 5 minutes up the hill from the seals was particularly strenuous, I had almost slowed to a crawl. I thought maybe I was unfit but I looked behind me and saw all the other participants in the same shape!

But it's 100% worth it. If you're ever in Dunedin, you MUST try this. It's an encounter of a lifetime and memorable cannot begin to describe it.

As we were coming up the hill at 8.45pm, the sun set, casting an amber glow on the vast landscape. This is the picture of dreams.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Big city, bright lights - Dunedin

Day 12 (Thu, 1 Dec 2011)

Te Anau to Dunedin: 296km

We have another long drive today but we know we will have 3 nights in Dunedin, so we're cheerful. After a while, it gets tiring to have to unpack and pack up to move to a different accommodation every day. So nice to stay put for a change!

Along the way, we stopped at Gore for lunch. Gore is quite a big town, with numerous cafes. We ate at this one, which had a lamb shank meal for only $14.90.

It turned out to be super yummy - tender and a generous sized portion. We've been eating lots of lamb in NZ. Surprisingly, even though there are sheep everywhere, lamb tends to be quite pricey. Beef and steak are cheaper, relative to the portion size. I'm guessing it's because you can get lots of meat from one cow but less so from one sheep.

But whether lamb or beef, the Kiwis cook their red meats exceedingly well.

I took a few closeups to show how the NZ fare has transformed my already tubby son into a rosy, roly-poly boy. His badminton coach is going to faint when she sees him.

The drive to Dunedin via the State Highway was through wide plains and valleys, so it was a smooth ride. I'm beginning to understand why some Americans like to take road trips. If the roads are anything like these, the drive itself can be enjoyable, even therapeutic (for those who like driving, that is).

These were some of the flattest terrains and straightest roads we'd driven on so far. In fact, Kenneth says driving on such roads makes him drowsy as it requires less concentration.

If ever you would use the textbook, over-quoted phrase "sapphire sky", it would be here. We had a sparkling, sunny day, not a cloud in the sky. Just a brilliant blue.

I thought I'd mention that throughout our drives across the country, we frequently encountered vacated shops and cafes like these below, as well as many houses with 'For Sale' signs. We heard on the news that many Kiwis and Kiwi businesses are leaving the country, calling it quits as they're finding it hard to make ends meet. It's so tragic that a beautiful place like this can't sustain its people.

The cloudless sky quickly pushed temperatures up and it became unbearably hot - reaching 30 degrees celcius! That's a more than 10 degree surge in just a couple of hours. I know today is the first day of Summer but still, that's ridiculous!

Sitting in the car, I could feel the sun scorching on the exposed skin on my arms and face. You really need to slather on the sunscreen, otherwise your skin will burn. It was so hot we stopped at a Caltex petrol station in Balclutha for ice cream.

As we approached Dunedin, the landscape changed. Dunedin is NZ's oldest city and this was the first city we'd been to, having bypassed Auckland and Wellington. It was almost a shock to be confronted with this many cars and people. We've also not seen multi-storey buildings for a while.


We checked into Dunedin Palms Motel, praying it would be nice since we'd be here a while. We found that it's quite centrally located, although not at the Octagon, which is the heart of town.

It's about 700m to the Octagon, still a manageable walk. But most importantly, we got the keys to our unit and it's gorgeous!

It has 2 bright, beautiful bedrooms and a very modern bathroom. Tvs in all the bedrooms and the living room plus a spacious living area. Yet it costs less here per night than the Te Anau accommodation. Bah. We're so glad we're staying 3 nights here!

Since we arrived fairly early, we decided to take a walk at the malls, to catch up on our shopping (this trip didn't leave us much time for souvenir buying). Dunedin town centre has 3 interlocking malls so it's quite confusing which one you're at.

Each has 3 floors, with rows of shops lining the exterior. This was also the first place in NZ where we've had to pay for parking, and it's not cheap either - $1 per half hour at the malls and $1.50 per half hour for street parking.

Found a couple of Christmas gifts for friends and took advantage of the free gift wrapping service. Exquisitely done, complete with elaborate ribbons and bows.

Following Internet recommendations again, we chose to have dinner at Jitsu, a Japanese restaurant.

It was a great call - only $15.50 for a sashimi bento box and the portions are large. Best of all, it was very tasty.

We miss our Japanese food! We may just come back again tomorrow.